Denali West Buttress - Women’s Specific Gear List

Gearing up for Denali felt a bit daunting, but also very exciting. There’s a lot of gear to explore and given the potentially harsh weather and heavy packs – you want to get it right.

As I was gearing up from Denali, I struggled to both find up-to-date gear lists and women’s specific ones.  This is my attempt to fill that void!

Note on content: This list is what I found helpful. The list is derived from AMS’s gear list, guidance from AMS & NOLS guides Nadine Lehner, Michelle Leonard, and Bert Schoultz and my own experience playing in Alaska, Montana, and Colorado. 

Footwear

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Double Mountaineering Boots	6000m Sportiva G2 Evo Scarpa 6000m 8000m La Sportiva Olympus Mons Scarpa Phantom 8000	For Denali, 6000m boot is sufficient, can use a 8000m boot if you’d like. Avoid boots with a spiral zipper, they tend to get stuck Size up! Your feet will swell at higher elevations, anticipate and plan to have extra space in your boots Consider throwing an insole, like SuperFeet, in your boot for added arch and foot support. Look at consignment shops, eBay, poshmark, FB marketplace for boots.
Socks	Smartwool or DarnTough socks	Light or zero cushion Hiking / calf height sock (ski socks work, but a bit annoying to have the extra weight) Bring 5 – 3 working pairs (1 per week), 1 evening pair, 1 sleeping pair
Gaiters	Black Diamond Frontpoint Gaiters	Do not need if you bring 8000m boots or if your softshell pants have built in gaiters Make sure they fit over your boots! Aim for Goretex gaiters
Camp Booties	40 Below Camp Booties Western Mountaineering Standard Bootie or Expedition Bootie	Western Mountaineering makes a Expedition Bootie that are really nice. Means you can walk around camp in them without getting snow in your booties.
Overboots	40 Below Purple Haze Overboot	Required if you bring 6000m boots Good item to rent if you aren’t sure you’ll use them again soon
VBL Socks	N/A	VBL = Vapor Barrier Layer Guide companies continue to recommend bringing VBL socks, I recommend skipping. Hard to find, not comfy. If you really want a pair, RAB makes a pair.
Blister Kit		Even the burliest feet will likely get a hotspot or two on Denali, pack a blister kit! Moleskin Athletic tape Duct tape KT tape Foam donuts Scissors (really, bring these!)

Upper Body

This is very personal and where I found that historical gear list are both the most confusing and under-layer. Most gear lists recommend: base layer, fleece layer, midweight down, expedition down jacket.

I would tweak that and plan to bring: Base Layer, Sun Hoody, Light Down Jacket, Midweight Down Jacket, Heavy Down Jacket, Expedition Weight Down Jacket.

Aside: use paracord to create larger zipper pulls for your jacket zippers and key pockets, makes them much easier to handle with gloves on

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Sports Bra	Smartwool Intraknit Strappy Bra	Bring 1, plan to wear it for the duration of the trip After testing many different sports bras, the Smartwool Intraknit Strappy Bra is my hands-down favorite. Happily wore it for 2 weeks straight on Denali
Base Layer - Lightweight	Smartwool All-Season Icebreaker 200 Patagonia Capilene Crew	Next to skin, wear every day layer. Merino is nice, this layer will get stinky
Base Layer - Midweight	Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew, Smartwool Classic Thermal Merino Base Layer Crew, Icebreaker 260 Zoneknit Long sleeve quarter zip	We had great weather, I never ended up wearing this layer. Bring and consider stashing if the weather is warm. I found the light base, sun hoody, and light down jacket to be the optimal combination.
Sun Hoody	Black Diamond Ascent Hoody Smartwool Sun Hoody Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily Hoody Melanzana Sun Hoody	Lightweight, light color sun hoody Should be loose, size up if needed Merino is lovely, these really start to stink
Fleece	Patagonia R1 Black Diamond Factor Fleece Rab Ascendor Fleece	Layer should have a hood
Light Insulated Jacket	Arcteryx Atom North Face Future Light	This is a wear-every-day layer. Should fit nicely under all your other jackets Should have a hood Recommend synthetic (vs down) for this layer Should be full zip (not pullover)
Midweight Insulated	Rab Xenair Alpine Patagonia Nano Puff Patagonia Down Sweater Enlightened Equipment Torrid	I was surprised that I almost never used this layer. Nice to have in case it’s a cold trip or you run cold. Should fit comfortably over your Lightweight insulation layer and under your heavy-weight insulation layer
Heavy Weight Insulation	Patagonia DAS Patagonia Fitz Roy Arcteryx Thorium Rab Neutrino Rab Mystic Ultra Down	Workhorse layer. Layer I used whenever we stopped for a snack on the move or kicking around camp. Down or synthetic Sizing up makes it very easy to throw on over whatever you’re wearing Full zip, with a hood.
Expedition Weight Jacket	Western Mountaineering Snøjack Parka GWS Arcteryx Alpha Parka Mountain Equipment K7 Jacket	Summit day jacket Make sure it fits comfortably over all your other layers Nice item to rent Don’t get a down suit, it’s too much for Denali
Wind Layer	Patagonia Houdini Patagonia CrossStrata	Another workhorse layer. Nice to have a light layer to cut the wind. Hood + full zip
Hard Shell Layer	Patagonia Triolet Mountain Equipment Tupilak Mountain Equipment Manaslu	Lightweight goretex. Pick the lightweight, most packable jacket that will get the job done Helmet compatible hood Pit zips Sized to fit over down layers, but not big/bulky

Lower Body

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Underwear	Smartwool Icebreaker	Bring 2-3 pairs Merino over synthetic Personal fav is the IceBreaker Siren thong
Base Layer Long Johns	Icebreaker 200 Zoneknit Merino Leggings	Everyday workhorse pair. I would recommend merino.
Midweight Long Johns	Patagonia Capilene Thermal Weight Bottoms Smartwool Classic Thermal Merino	I never ended up wearing my heavier LJs. Size up 1 size so layer over base LJ on really cold days or at night
Softshell Pants	Patagonia Alpine Guide Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid	Everyday pants Look for a pair with pit zips and integrated gaiters Should be ‘heavy’ softshells, not lightweight softshells Should fit comfortably over your LJs
Hard Shell Pants	Patagonia Triolet North Face Summit Series Torre Eiger FutureLight Pants	These are shockingly hard to find! Full leg zips (to put on/take off with crampons on) Not bibs Goretex
Down Pants	Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant North Face Summit Series Breithorn Pants	Size up! Should be cozy, no one wants to feel like a Michelin Tire Man. Should fit comfortably over your soft shell pants Full zip

Head

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Sun Hat	Skida Brim Hat	Synthetic 5-panel hat or running hat works really well Avoid hats with button at the top Make sure it fits comfortably with your helmet
Warm Hats	Working Hat Skida alpine hat Skida Pursuit Technical hat Smartwool The Lid Cozy Hat Skida high or low pile hat Bri Moore beanies Mountain Threads beanie	Bring 2 - one cozy in camp one, one for moving in Make sure the moving hat fits comfortably under your helmet
Buff	Buff skida Snow Tour Gaiter Skida Sun Tour Gaiter	Consider bringing a lighter and heavier buff - one for warmth, one for sun coverage
Balaclava	BlackStrap Expedition Balaclava Skida Balaclava	Full coverage balaclava for very cold days
Sunglasses	Julbo Montarosa Julbo Shield (M) SunSki Treeline Polarized	Bring 2 pairs Should have side shields Make sure they fit your face - most companies like Julbo make smaller and larger frames (typically labeled mens vs womens). Super annoying for them to be slipping down your nose all day. Bring a pair of croakies - easy insurance policy Lean towards darker lens (ie Spectrum 4 or Reactiv lens for Julbo glasses)
Goggles		Goggles for very weather days (didn’t end up needing mine, wore sunnies every day) Make sure they fit with your helmet (I brought low-profile, small frame ski goggles, smaller than what I typically ski in) Not an item to spend big on. Just bing something basic.
Headlamp	Petzl Actik	Light 24h in the summer, don’t really need a headlamp. Bring a simple, basic and light head headlamp.
Nose Guard	NosKon Nose Guard	High dork factor, really helpful on sunny days If available, get the black version. Slightly less dorky than white.
Face Mask	OuterU Face Glove Flex	High dork factor, really great on cold, windy days
Sunscreen	ThinkSport SPF 50	Bring 2, choose a sunscreen with zinc in it
Lip Balm	Dermatone	Bring 2, with at least SPF 30

Hands

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Hardware Gloves	Coated Safety Gloves	Simple unlined gloves from your hardware store. Recommend synthetic over leather.
Waterproof Gloves	Showa Thermal Glove	These run small, size up!
Glove Liners	BD Midweight Screen Tap Gloves
Medium Working Gloves	BD Patrol Glove BD Mission Glove	Make sure to SnoSeal all leather gloves Should be nimble enough in these gloves to manage ropes, ascender, carabiners, etc.
Heavy Working Gloves	BD Guide Glove BD Guide Finger Glove (Lobster Claw)	Consider lobster claw gloves (BD Guide Finger Glove) if you run cold Make sure to SnoSeal all leather gloves Should fit over glove liners
Summit Mitts	BD Absolute Mitt	Recommend synthetic over down Down is a bit lighter, but don’t want to fail if they get wet Bring mitt leashes
Hand & Foot Warmers		Bring 3 sets of each

Sleep Set Up

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Sleeping Bag	Western Mountaineer -40 Bag	Recommend renting from AMS unless you know you’ll need it again soon
Sleeping Bag Compression Sack		Make sure it’s big enough, -40 bags are big
Closed Foam Sleeping Pad	Thermarest Z Lite	Bring both a closed foam and inflatable sleeping pad Should be full length
Inflatable Sleeping Pad	Thermarest NeoAir XTherm Sleeping Pad	High R-value pad will keep you warmer Full body length (not ¾)
Pillow	Thermarest AirHead or Airhead Lite Pillow	Might feel precious to bring a pillow, really worth it Inflatable pillow
Ear Plugs	Earplugs on cord	Ear plugs connected by a cord are easier to keep track of
Eye Mask		It's light 24h a day, really nice to have.

Hardgoods

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Backpack	Mountain Hardwear AMG 75L or 105L
Stuff Sacks	Sea to Summit Granite Gear	Bring 3-4 2-20-30L bags to stash gear at caches 1-20L to corral gear in the tent 1-10L for general gear
Harness	Black Diamond Couloir Harness Petzl Altitude
Helmet	Black Diamond Vapor Petzl Sirocco	This might sound silly, but you should like your helmet. You're more likely to wear it if you like it.
Non-Locking Carabiners	Black Diamond HotWire Black Diamond HotForge	Bring 7. Recommend bringing matching ones for ease of IDing. Label with nail polish or tape.
Locking Carabiners	Black Diamond VaporLock Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate	Bring 3. Recommend bringing matching ones for ease of IDing. Label with nail polish or tape.
Crampons	Black Diamond Serac Black Diamond Sabretooth (Clip) Petzl Sarken Leverlock	Ideal crampons are 10-point semi-automatic crampons, that are stainless steel. I refer ones with a heel tail and strap over the toe, can also go straps in front and back (ie Black Diamond Contact Strap or Petzl Vasak FlexLock). Recommend testing crampon sizing with both your boots and overboots.
Crampon Bag	Black Diamond ToolBox Bag Black Diamond Crampon Bag	Crampon bag makes it easier to store your crampons without puncturing any of your gear
Ascender	Petzl Ascender	Get for your dominant hand
Ice Ax	Petzl Glacier LiteRide Ice Ax Black Diamond Raven Petzl Summit 2	Shaft can be straight or slightly curved. If you are under 5’8”, probably want a 50-55cm ice ax. Spike should hit between your mid-calf and ankle when standing with your arm straight.
Ice Ax Leash	Black Diamond Slinger Ice Ax Leash	Can also make your own with some webbing and a nano size non-locker

Food/Kitchen

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Bowl	Nalgene Bowl + insulation Hydraflask bowl	It’s cold, food cools down quickly - need to have an insulated food container. Hydraflask bowl is heavier but worth it Nalgene bowl can be insulated with some 5mm foam + duct tape Bowl should have lid
Spoon		Lexan plastic spoon (not metal - too cold!)
Nalgenes	Wide Mouth 1L  Nalgene & Wide mouth 0.5L Nalgene	Bring 2 normal size Nalgenes for water and 1 baby Nalgene for hot drinks
Nalgene Sleeves	40Below Bottle Boots	Water bottle sleeves to keep bottles from freezing Recommend getting all the same color and labeling with a sharpie
Thermos	Thermos Ultimate Flask 900ml	This item is optional. Not everyone on trip needs a thermos, really nice for hot drinks on cold days / in the tent.
Drink Mixes	Tea Coffee Electrolyte Tabs	Recommend bringing a mix of your favorite instant coffee, teas and electrolyte tabs (ie Nuun).
Snack	AMS snack room is awesome, bring only what you really think you need in addition to that.	Bring foods/snacks that will lift spirits when things are hard. I always bring small containers of yellow bird hot sauces and my favorite gummy gears on trip with me

Tech

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Books	Kindle or Kindle app on your phone	Books for tent time. If you bring a kindle, recommend making a little sleeve out of 5mm foam to keep it warm to preserve battery
Watch	Garmin Fenix S Timex Ironman	At minimum, watch should have an alarm. An altimeter is nice to track progress, but not necessary.
Comms	Garmin InReach	Nice to chat with folks back home while away for several weeks. Very optional.
Battery Pack	Belkin, Goal Zero	10,000-15,000mAh of charge is sufficient
Charging Cables		Cables to recharge kindle, inreach, phone, etc.
Headphones	Corded Headphones	To listen to music and audiobooks during tent time
Camera	Dealer’s Choice

Misc / Toiletries

Item	Recommendation	Notes
Pee Funnel	SheWee	Practice at home!
Pee Bottle	Nalgene Collapsible Bottle - 48 oz Wide Mouth Cantene
Wipes		Bring 2x as many as you think Wipes for your face, wooha and bum. Things get funky, wipes go a long way to make you at least feel like you aren’t a hot stinky mess. Buy the packs, not single use wipes.
TP		AMS suggests 2 rolls. My rec is 1 roll plus extra wipes.
Med Kit		Guides carry med kit, bring what you think you’ll personally use often: Advil, Diamox Blister kits items listed in above section Tampons/diva cup
Toothbrush + Toothpaste		1 small toothpaste
Lotion	Cerave/Cedaphil Moisturizing Cream Power Repair Face Cream	Heavy duty cream is wonderful to bring, your skin takes a beating on the mountain
Hand Soap	Dr Brauner’s	1oz nalgene jar or travel size of Dr Brauner’s
Hand Sanitizer		2-1oz
Poop Kit Stuff Sack		5L stuff sack to hold poop kit items - TP, wipes, hand sani, soap, etc.